A Personal View Of Valencia – By Sophia Jay

SITTING at a shaded pavement cafe sipping Valencia Water (a dangerously drinkable cocktail of freshly squeezed orange juice, cava and Vodka) you could be forgiven for believing yourself on the other side of the planet from the tourist trampled beach resorts of Benidorm, Alicante and Torrevieja.
Yet it is resorts such as these that draw over 4.5 million tourists (many of them Brits) to the Comunidad Valenciana each year, making it Spain?s most visited region. The vast majority of these visitors cling to the coast like limpets unaware of the gems that this beautiful and diverse region has to offer.
Founded in 138 AD by a group of weary Roman legionaries who were granted prime land beside the Rio Turia to build a retirement community, Valencia now has a population of over 750,000 making it Spain’s third largest city. Like most European cities it consists of a hotchpotch of buildings that have grown up over the centuries many of which, including the cathedral and the neoclassical post office, are ornate and exquisitely beautiful. The cathedral?s 230ft bell tower is well worth the climb – especially in the evening when the city is bathed in rich golden sunlight, but Valencians are relaxed about opening hours to say the least so it?s best to do your homework beforehand. My friend and I finally made it to the top on our third attempt.
Valencia?s attractions are too numerous to list, but the biggest crowd puller is the Ciudad De Las Artes Y De Las Ciencias (The city of arts and sciences) which occupies a huge swathe of the old Turia riverbed south east of the city centre. Looking rather like a cross between an armadillo and Darth Vader?s hat, the daring 21st century museum, designed by home town boy Santiago Calatrava, covers 3,770,000 sq ft, making it Europe?s largest urban complex. Still under construction, Valencia?s showpiece also boasts an IMAX cinema and a laser show, and is worth a visit if only to ogle the distinctive architecture of Senor Calatrava, who rose from an undistinguished Valencian suburb to become one of the world?s leading cutting edge architects. Currently on his drawing board are the Milwaukee Art Museum on the shores of Lake Michigan and the Cathedral of Christ the Light in Oakland, California.
If the glare from the gleaming white buildings becomes too much, the city?s slightly bohemian Barrio del Carmen district is well worth a stroll, as is El Mercat where our backpackers Home Lonja is located. Cosy, cheap, fun, friendly and extremely orange – I cannot recommend this place enough.
Oranges of course are very big business in the Valencia region. If you bite into an orange anywhere in western Europe there is a fair chance it was grown here. As soon as you leave the city, which I recommend everybody does at least once, you will not be able to miss the groves which produce 70% of the country?s oranges, most of which are exported. The abundant freshly squeezed orange juice is unreal. Perhaps the city?s biggest claim to fame however, is that it is the home of paella, and anyone wanting to sample this Spanish speciality is spoilt for choice. Paella is traditionally made with chicken and rabbit (usually on the bone) and snails or seafood, but I was relieved to find a veggie option laid on for the more discerning (squeamish) traveller.
Outside the city the forested mountains give way to ancient towns and villages just begging to be explored. We took a train through the beautiful rust coloured winelands to Requina, a bustling commercial centre from which rises a walled city that was established by the Moors in the eighth century. The city?s ancient allyways, which shoot off in every direction, hiding medieval churches with exquisitely carved doorways are an explorer?s dream. What makes the place all the more enchanting is that although not untouched by tourism, these streets are inhabited by ordinary people who gossip in doorways whilst their washing flutters in the warm breeze.
Finally to take in the good, the bad and the ugly, we took a trip to Benidorm. I went with an open mind. No I did. But in spite of the pretty mountains that line the Costa Blanca, this British family favourite (think Clapham Junction on sea with more concrete towerblocks) never failed to shock and appal. When we missed the first bus out of the neon nightmare I was actually quite scared.
There is no denying that the Comunidad Valenciana?s hours of scorching sunshine make it a beach lovers paradise. But stray from the coast and I can assure you will not be disappointed.